Haute Couture Fall. Favs

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Zuhair Murad

He was trading between two key themes—the pleated lamé, deployed to architectural effect, and the overtly gothic, marked by lace, those Victorian necklines, and lots and lots of hand-beading in the shape of barren tree branches.


Alexandre Vauthier

Alexandre Vauthier designs sexy clothes in the vein of Christophe Decarnin-era Balmain and Anthony Vaccarello.


Armani Privé

“Pure elegance, what’s on the inside,” said Giorgio Armani after the show.


Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille claimed the nineteenth-century Italian painter Giovanni Boldini as inspiration for his couture collection this season.


Giambattista Valli

“Flowers and colors are what women want from me,”Giambattista Valli said before his couture show.


Christian Dior

Raf Simons was always going to bring a new sensibility to couture, but just how new was made dazzlingly clear with his show for Christian Dior today.


Elie Saab

“Royally opulent silhouettes appear from between the columns of the Palais Brongniart,” Elie Saab‘s program announced.


Viktor & Rolf

It’s been thirteen years since Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were on the Couture calendar.


Valentino

Leonardo da Vinci’s quote “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” was front and center on their mood board. 


Bouchra Jarrar

“Couture du jour.“It’s my signature,” Jarrar said. “I just think a woman looks most elegant in trousers.”


Chanel

“On the way from the Old World to the New World,” was Lagerfeld’s summation of his spectacular mise-en-scène. “And fashion is the only way to make the trip.”


Vionnet

Today, Ashkenazi presented what she’s calling a new demi-couture collection for the label. “We figured out how to make the dresses more affordable but use the same couture techniques,” she said. 


Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier works a theme like a last nerve. Today’s was clearly big cats…big lady cats, to be precise: lionesses, tigresses, cougars.


Atelier Versace

The inspiration for the new collection, easily Donatella’s most confident since she returned to couture a year and a half ago, was the black-and-white photography of the thirties, updated for the twenty-first century. 


Maison Martin Margiela

If fashion is alchemy of a kind, Maison Martin Margiela‘s Artisanal initiative is one of its most explicit expressions. 


Ulyana Sergeenko

After collections devoted to Russian fairy tales and American literature, Ulyana Sergeenko turned to orthodox architecture and priests’ vestments as inspiration for her third couture show.

Content borrowed from style.com

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6 Comments

  1. Lucine A says:

    К кутюрным коллекциям отношусь по своему,зная все критерии, которыми должны обладать дома мод прежде чем выставляться. Всегда меня покоряют Zuhair Murad и Elie Saab своей неверояной элегантностью и изысканностью,Giambattista Valli – формами и Valentino – потрясающей отделкой. Расстроил Раф Симонс – ушел от темы Диор, так же как и Лагерфельд в Шанель последние "гмм" лет.. Ну и с особой претензией отношусь к Гоге Ашкенази в Vionnet и Ульяне Сергеенко.
    В прошлой публикации даже писала почему 🙂
    http://www.lucine-a.com/2013/01/paris-haute-couture-overview.html

  2. Katerine says:

    a 4to tq mozesh skazat o kollekcii Maison Martin Margiela? Kollekcija slovno povtorjaetsja s prowlogo goda? P.S. Tebe ne kazetsja, 4to kollekcii Elie Saab sliwkom predskazuemq i uze porjadkom skuwnq?

  3. Lucine A says:

    Конечно предсказуемо – это почерк автора. Я все равно нахожу эти коллекции шикарными.
    Работы Maison Martin Margiela всегда интересно разглядывать и изучать. На мой взгляд, переход из коллекции в коллекцию не должен сильно бросаться в глаза. Поэтому и тут было достаточно предсказуемо, что лицо, к примеру, будет накрыто. Зато теперь появились цветочки )

  4. Ann says:

    Lucine, a kak tq otnosishsja k tvor4estvu takogo dizainera kak Georges Hobeika, kot. takze u4astvoval v nedele Haute Couture Paris? 🙂

  5. Lucine A says:

    Если честно, Жорж Хобейка мне очень напоминает Ели Сааб. Даже глядя на его нынешнюю кутюрную коллекцию, непринужденно вспоминаешь работы Сааб с прошлых сезонов.

  6. Katerine says:

    Lucine, kakaja iz predstavlennqh kutjurnqh kollekcij fw 2013/14 tebe ponravilas bolwe vsego, a kakaja net i po4emu?

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